Kamali's Sophomore Show for Chloé in Paris Dazzled with Lightness

Chemena Kamali's sophomore collection for Chloé was a luminous exploration of femininity, blending the house's heritage with a fresh, sensual energy for spring. Set against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes and soft whites, the Paris collection captured Kamali's vision of a summer that she surmised as: "when you pause, escape, explore and recharge." It celebrated Chloé's free-spirited DNA, infused with a lightness that felt both nostalgic and forward-looking.

Here are some highlights of Thursday's shows at Paris Fashion Week, including a French honor for Naomi Campbell:

Kamali's Joyful Freedom

"There's a liberating expression of total freedom," Kamali said of her spring display.

This freedom flowed through silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops and peek-a-boo designs.

Echoes of Karl Lagerfeld's '70s Chloé lingered in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces, like a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. "Chloé is not a passing moment; it's an eternal state of mind," Kamali noted, grounding her collection in the house's long-standing ethos of optimism and instinct.

Layering played a central role, but Kamali kept it light and intuitive, reflecting what she called a "very personal way of dressing." Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace mixed effortlessly with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous, a signature of Kamali's debut collection. "What matters to me is the feeling and intuition," she said.

A standout moment came in the form of a dramatic trapeze-shaped silk gown, its dynamic silhouette swirling with movement. It epitomized Kamali's ability to honor Chloé's romantic roots while infusing a modern sensibility. "The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful," she explained. That joyful freedom was a defining thread from start to finish.

With her second outing, Kamali proved she is the right designer to lead Chloé. She crafted a spring collection that balanced nostalgia and sensuality while pushing the house toward a bright, optimistic future.

Mugler's Cadwallader Takes a Bite at Fashion

Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking show for Mugler, equal parts theatrical and innovative. The hair, sculpted into harsh fringes like a viper's fang, set the tone for a collection defined by sharp architectural lines. Curving lapels adorned tight jackets, while tendrils of latticed silk flowed into skirts that bled vibrant yellows, creating a visual spectacle.

The collection boldly embraced femininity, featuring a bust that echoed the form of seashells and a densely packed bustier resembling a diving whale. This daring aesthetic aligns with Cadwallader's aim to infuse the brand with a fresh energy, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans long for.

Oversized tubular arms complemented a webbed skirt-coat, while a transparent loose trench evoked the look of a sea medusa, reinforcing Cadwallader's commitment to pushing boundaries.